Mike Bennie, Gourmet Traveller WINE, 2011
The dry white wine variety from Campania in Italy has a big future in Australia. There, I’ve said it. Acceleration in the palate through to chalky, mineral driven finishes aside, the hearty variety keeps poise even in tough climate conditions. Hence, Coriole and Oliver’s Taranga again take a run at the variety, with excellent results. There is more parity in their styles here; faint smoke, dried herbs and nuttiness add complexity to a green-apple and citrus-blossom flush. These are more-ish, refreshing wines that herald the variety as the implicitly drinkable grape that it can be when handled with minimal intervention. Fox Gordon and Rutherglen Estates do well too. The neutrality of fruit flavour and dry-without-shrillness inherent in the variety, is very applicable to mass appeal, yet also offers depth for wine cognoscenti seeking some soul searching.